The world of perfumery is a fascinating one, with ingredients coming from some likely origins and some not so likely origins. However today we discover some of the worlds most rare and expensive perfume ingredients to date. We reveal why a deep dark aromatic resin produced by fungus is one the most sought after ingredients in a perfumers accordion, to the highly regulated musk pods that come from the glands of a particular deer.     

 

~ Oud ~

Oud is one of the rarest and priciest ingredients in perfumery. It derives from the Aquilaria tree found in South Asia and the Middle East. The Agarwood found in the heartwood of Aquilaria trees has to be infected with a particular mould called Phialophora parasitica. As the Agarwood becomes more infected a dark aromatic resin is formed. This is the prized result known as oud or ‘oudh’. The various aromatic qualities of oud are influenced by the different varieties and qualities of agarwood. This can be influenced by the species, geographic location, root origin and length of time since infection. Oud’s hefty price tag is due to the fact that only a small percentage of Agarwood in the world produce the rare dark fragrant resin. Rare Oud’s can come with a price tag ranging from £3000, all the way to £40,000 for the rarest oils. 

~ Bulgarian Rose ~

This sweet floral scent with a hint of spice has one of the most labour intensive extraction processes in the perfumery world. A staggering 10,000 pounds of bulgarian rose petals are picked in order to make just 1oz of absolute essential oil. Each petal painstakingly hand picked (mind the prickly thorns) in the Rose Valley of Bulgaria. A 1oz of high quality Bulgarian Rose absolute essential oil can fetch for £700.    

~ Ambergris ~

Ambergris is a unique ingredient in perfumery that comes from an even more unique source, the intestines of sperm whales. The wales pass Ambergris like faecal matter and it can be found floating on the sea or washed up on coastlines. The author of Floating Gold: A Natural (and Unnatural) History of Ambergris, Christopher Kemp states that an estimated one percent of Sperm whales produce Ambergris. Making it a rare occurrence. Once it is expelled by a whale, it often floats for years before washing up on shores. It can be found on the coasts of countries such as Madagascar, The Maldives and India to name a few. It is a sought after ingredient by perfumers and a costly one at that. According to The Sun newspaper In February 2021, a group of Yemeni fishermen found 127kg worth of ambergris which they sold for over £1million.

~ Orris ~

Orris essential oil comes from the Iris Bulb. This is a very time consuming process starting with the orris roots. These are collected and washed with the surface layer removed. They are then cured and stored. The longer they are stored the better. The length of time it is stored equates to the percentage of irones - These are usually offered commercially as 1%, 8% and 15%. 

1 kilo of Orris absolute (1% irons) can sell for upwards of £2900. The aroma is moderately sweet and earthy, with gourmand chocolate, floral notes and violet hints.

 

~ Jasmine ~

Jasmine is a very popular ingredient in the perfume industry, so much so that around 80% of all feminine perfumes use the synthetic aroma chemical of Jasmin. However it's the natural essential oil that has the costly factor. This is due to the sheer amount of Jasmine flowers needed to produce the oil. It takes around 2000 pounds of the delicate flower to produce one pound of oil. However if you seek the more precious absolute oil, a more concentrated version. It takes 8000 Jasmine flowers to produce just 1/25 ounces. A 1oz of Jasmine absolute oil can fetch for a price of upto £300. 

~ Musk ~

Musk is usually associated with masculine scents and is a popular ingredient among them. However the origin of this ingredient may dishearten some. Natural musk comes from the musk pods of the now endangered Musk deers. They are obtained by killing the deer for its musk pods (glands). A tincture is formed from the dried paste-like substance found inside the pods. After the tincture has been diluted it gives off a woody, animalistic, earthy aroma. Fortunately, most musk used in the majority of perfumes today is in its synthetic form. Known as muscone.

Natural Musk is a highly regulated ingredient and due to its origin and process of extraction is one of the most expensive ingredients that derive from an animal.